FAQs

 

    General

  • Payment options for collection

    If the panels are being collected today, payment can be made by cash/EFTPOS at the time of collection.
    We do not have Visa payWave or Afterpay facilities.

  • Picking up plywood from our Warehouse

    Pick ups are made from 26 Business Parade North, Highbrook, Auckland 2013 between 8:00am to 4:30pm.

    *Please note that for collection, these panels are not packed or strapped.

  • Can I use plywood outside?

    There are some potential risks which need to be understood. This understanding is essential for selecting the correct panel and the right coating.

    The main issue when using plywood in exposed outdoor situations is surface checking. This is caused by stress in the face veneers through expansion and contraction. It appears as small splits in the face veneer which can in some instances deteriorate rapidly. Surface checking is common with plywood left exposed to the elements regardless of the timber specie or treatment.

    Plywood used for exterior cladding has a ‘bandsawn’ finish. This has two advantages over smooth faced plywood. The textured finish changes the expansion and contraction dynamic reducing the risk of surface checking. The textured surface also holds more coating increasing the protection offered and potentially the time between recoating.

    Smooth face plywood can sometimes be used in sheltered exterior applications. One common example is soffit linings. Often the decorative plywood ceiling lining is continued outside to the soffit. Here panels should be manufactured with exterior ‘A bond’ glues. Most importantly is the coating selection, application and maintenance. This is critical to the performance of the panel. Along with the risk of surface checking is also the possibility of water staining within the veneer. This staining will be obvious where clearcoats are used. To help reduce this we recommend coating the face, back and edges with an exterior coating. The coating on the face must be maintained and recoated within the time recommended by the coating manufacturer. The home owner needs to be aware of this as recoating must be done before the original coating starts to show signs of breaking down. Consider accessibility for maintenance at the design stage. If access is difficult, it would be worth considering alternative materials such as Trespa® Meteon®

    A common request is recommendations for plywood panels for outdoor kitchens. This isn’t always followed with a straight forward answer. Some outdoor kitchens are fully exposed and some are so well protected they’re almost inside. Most panels available in New Zealand are intended for interior use only. Aside from rain, hail and snow outdoor kitchens are also subjected to larger temperature variations than those inside. This can result in panels twisting or warping. Consideration should also be given to the additional UV rays the panels will be exposed to. Assess the situation and understand the limitations. Sometimes it might be better to consult an outdoor kitchen professional such as Love Kitchens

    In summary the real challenge with using any timber panel outside is keeping water/moisture out of the wood fibres. The coatings selection, application and maintenance is absolutely critical to the longevity of panels.

    • Plywood for Laser Cutting

      Please note that if the panels are for laser cutting, Hoop Pine AC Interior is the only one we are able to recommend. This panel has an interior grade glue and this allows the laser to cut through glue lines without burning. All of our other panels (including Birch Model Ply) have an exterior grade glue and will give varying results depending on the machine being used.
      www.plytech.co.nz/hoop-pine-interior-white

    • Light Reflection Values – LRV

      It is preferable to use light colours which have a light reflectance value (LRV) of 40% or higher. This will lessen the effect of greater expansion and contraction which occurs when using darker colours (LRV of below 40%). Darker colours can be used but it will require more frequent maintenance than lighter colours. If the ply is left without coating protection the cladding faces will degrade. However, it may be best contacting a coating specialist where you’d be able to get a specification on an appropriate coating and ongoing maintenance schedule.

 

    Coating selection, preparation and application

  • Coating Selection

      Selecting a coating to achieve the desired finish for your plywood will depend on a number of factors. Primarily the plywood’s reaction to the coating, application equipment to be used and the environment it is to be coated in.

      With lighter timbers such as Poplar and Hoop Pine it is recommended to avoid oil finishes. The best results are typically achieved with water-based clearcoats as they sit more on top of the veneer having less impact on the colour of the timber.

      Darker timbers like Gaboon and Meranti on the other hand can be coated with solvent-based clearcoats or oil finishes. These coating options can bring out the natural colours and grain of the timber.

      Birch timber can be coated with water-based clearcoat or natural oil, while natural oils are also ideal for coating Walnut and Oak.

      Exterior coatings – in higher UV areas such as soffits it’s essential to use exterior coatings. This is because interior coatings will break down rapidly exposing the timbers face veneer to moisture.

      Use this as a guide only. It is recommended to test coatings prior to committing to the system.

  • Surface Preparation

      The plywood panels must be thoroughly clean, dry and free from wax, oil, grease and other contaminants. To achieve the best results the panels should receive a light sand to remove contaminates prior to coating. Sharp edges should also be rounded. This is a good time to thoroughly inspect the ply as any visible defects may show through to the final coated finish.

      Do not rely on the coating to hide substrate defects. Good preparation is the key to a flawless finish.

    • Application

        Best results will always be achieved when coatings are applied in a controlled environment. This is especially important with film forming/clearcoat finishes. Consult the coating manufacturers data sheet prior to application. This will provide application method, temperature and humidity limits, recoat times, and dry times.

        When coating on site the longer between receiving the panels and coating the greater the risk of surface contamination. Protection begins after the full coating system has been applied.

        It is expected that all timber is stored flat, clear of the ground, and remain dry at all times. Excessive moisture content at the time of installation from improper storage and handling can lead to future issues, such as warping and cupping, as well as increase the potential for mold growth. Any marks or damage will be easily seen when finishing with semi-transparent woodcare coatings.

      • Coating Plywood Edges

          The edges on our Futura HPL, Polaris HPL, Spectrum, and pre-coated panels can be finished with a simple application of wood oil (Osmo Oil, Danish oil etc). A light sand with fine paper or steel wool following the first coat will sometimes be required. Follow this with one or two further coats to achieve a lacquer like finish.

        • Pre-coated Panels

            Our Birch Elite, Birch Décor Oak and Birch Décor Walnut are available pre-coated with a factory applied clear coats offering the ultimate in consistency, saving time and cost.

          • Natural Oils

              Natural Oils are a type of coating that soaks into the pores of the plywood. They are easy to apply, and finishes can usually be easily repaired. Some maintenance/re-application might be required over time.

 
 

    What is the difference between Marine BS1088 and Marine Bonded BB/CC plywood?

  • Face Veneers

    Marine BS1088 – AB grade both sides = clean veneer no defects except for very occasional very small filled end splits.

    Marine Bonded – B grade face = clean veneer with occasional minor repairs such as small filled splits. BB grade back = sound veneer with repaired defects such as filled splits, filled worm holes, some rough grain, occasional veneer patch repairs neatly fitted.

  • Core Veneers

    Marine BS1088 – Selected sound BC grade core veneers with no internal defects. No edge or end gaps, splits or voids, although the specification does allow one small core gap per edge.

    Marine Bonded – Mixed CC grade core veneers allowing small open defects internally. Edges can show core gaps, usually not wider than 3mm.

  • Species Make Up

    Marine BS1088 – Sheets in a given specie must be made using the samespecie throughout all veneers.

    Marine Bonded – Mixed species allowed – Hoop Pine is same specie throughout but others can have core veneers different from nominated face specie.

  • Veneer Selection

    Marine BS1088 – Production restricted to highest quality, high strength species – Gaboon is the exception due to its lightweight characteristic being desirable in certain cases.

    Marine Bonded – Any specie suitable for plywood production allowed.

  • Durability

    Marine BS1088 – Ideally durable hardwoods such as Meranti are used but there is no restriction on using high quality non durable species such as Hoop Pine, which is desirable as it is a tight grain, high strength renewable resource plantation specie, Gaboon as its lightweight characteristic is desirable, or Kauri for its finishing qualities.

    Marine Bonded – Any specie suitable for plywood production allowed.

  • Gluing

    Marine BS1088 – Marine phenolic formaldehyde resin, must pass a 72 hour boil test. Commonly known as WBP (weather boil proof) or “A” bond.

    Marine Bonded – Same as BS1088

  • Identification

    Marine BS1088 – Must be stamped by the manufacturer showing: Brand Name, Country of Production, Thickness, Grade – BS 1088, Bonding – WBP

    Marine Bonded – No requirement but usually shows brand name and bonding, WBP.

 

    How To's

  • Fixing Systems

    For fixing and installation details, we recommended contacting a specialist who may be able to help.

    Fastmount – A well thought out clip system with great tools to assist.www.fastmount.com
    Soudal – Offers a great range of adhesives. soudal.co.nz
    Exterior Cladding – Standard details for Pinetech Cladding downmloads. plytech.co.nz/cladding-details

    Check out www.plytech.co.nz/fixing for instructional videos and resources.

 

    What is the difference between Meranti and Gaboon Marine ply?

  • Texture
    Meranti – Even medium/coarse texture slightly grainy lustrous surface.

    Gaboon – Smooth/medium texture surface.
  • Class
    Meranti – Hardwood

    Gaboon – Hardwood
  • Colour
    Meranti – Varies from pale pink to dark brown.

    Gaboon – Salmon pink to pinkish brown.
  • Air Dry Timber Density
    Meranti – 480kg/m3

    Gaboon – 430kg/m3
  • Characteristics
    Meranti – Very economic excellent production using selected high grade Meranti logs. High strength, light to medium weight, low resin absorption but high grain fill level. Machines, glues and works well – sawn ends can be fibrous.

    Gaboon – The lightest weight ply on the market, but this low density means lower strength, requiring careful design. Machines and finishes well – medium grain fill level. Very well made by Joubert Plywood, Europe’s top producer.
  • Natural Durability
    Meranti – Moderately durable to durable

    Gaboon – Non durable

    Note: Marine plywoods are not required to be naturally durable. Good boatbuilding practice of thorough sealing with preservative compounds, paints or resins is normal.
  • Stress Grade
    Meranti – F14 – F17

    Gaboon – F8

    Note: Comparative measure of stiff ness and strength, tested by Forest Research Institute.